How to convert your bike to tubeless.

With a tubeless setup, you'll have fewer flat tyres, lower tyre pressure, and better traction. The conversion is easier than many people think – here's how:
 

• Tubeless-ready rims (TLR / UST) 
• Tubeless tyres 
• Tubeless rim tape 
• Tubeless valves 
  • Our mountain bikes are delivered tubeless-ready – that means with rim tape and tubeless tyres already fitted. Tubeless valves are included in addition to the pre-installed inner tube 
• Sealant 
• Tyre lever (preferably plastic) 
• Pump (Optimal: compressor or booster pump) 

• Remove old tyres and inner tubes. 
• Clean the rim – it must be dry and free of grease. 
• Apply the tubeless rim tape tightly: 
  • Slightly stretched 
  • 1 – 2 cm overlap at the end 
• Use a sharp object to make a small hole in the valve opening. 

• Insert the tubeless valve into the hole.
• Tighten it by using the knurled nut.
• It has to be rock-solid – no wobbling.

• Press one tyre bead all the way onto the rim. 
• Before you completely close the second bead: 
  • Pour in the sealant (amount as specified by the manufacturer, usually 60–120 ml). 
    Alternatively: Unscrew the valve core and pour it in through the valve later. 
• Seat the second bead. To do this, press the tyre all the way into the rim base where the rim is deepest – this makes mounting it a little easier. 

• To ensure that the tyre seals against the rim, a strong burst of air is often needed: 
  • Compressor or tubeless booster → ideal 
  • Floor pump → works too, just takes a little patience 
• Make sure that both beads make an audible “pop” as they snap into place in the rim. 

If the tyre is properly installed and holds air: 

• Shake the wheel 
• Turn the wheel 
• Tilt sideways 

The sealant must reach every spot.

• Some air may escape during the first 24 hours → top up the tyre.
• Check after a few days to see if it’s still sealed.
• Check the sealant every 2–3 months and refill as needed.